The grafting of kiwifruit is more difficult than other fruit trees. Spring grafting is used alone, the grafting period is short, and the grafting period is short, and it is only alive in the spring of the following year, which extends the production period. Therefore we advocate summer grafting.
Grafting time The survival rate of kiwifruit grafting is closely related to temperature, moisture, affinity, and grafting technology. Within a certain temperature range, the higher the temperature, the faster the formation of callus tissue, but if the temperature is too high, the callus tissue will die and the grafting will not survive. Generally, it will be carried out from June to July after the branches are lignified. The best time for grafting is in early June. Until mid-July.
Scion selection: Choose from the fruiting trees of good cultivars the annual shoots that are robust, full of buds, and free of pests and diseases, or the fruiting shoots or developmental shoots of the current year. The shoots are required to be lignified, and ****** is used as needed. Pick.
Rootstock selection The grafted rootstock should be a plant that grows vigorously and is free of pests and diseases. The grafting part of the base of the rootstock should be smooth and flat, and the diameter should be more than 0.5 cm, and about 1 cm is the ***, so that the branches from the scion will grow vigorously.
Grafting methods can use single bud abdominal grafting and split grafting. (1) Single bud ventral splicing: select a bud on the scion, slant at 45 degrees 1-2 cm below the bud to 2/5 of the circumference of the scion, and then cut it down about 1 cm above the bud. Slightly xylem until it meets the first cutting edge, and the total length of the removed buds is about 2-3 cm. When the rootstock is about 10 cm away from the ground, choose a smooth and shady surface, cut a cut surface of the same size or a little larger according to the method of cutting the buds, insert the bud slices so that the two cambium layers are aligned, and wrap them tightly with plastic strips to expose the bud eyes. And petioles. (2) Splitting: It is mostly used when the scion thickness is smaller than the rootstock. Cut the rootstock about 10 cm from the ground, and cut a 3 cm incision down from the middle of the section. Cut the lower end of the scion into a wedge with a slope of 2-3 cm. The thickness of one side of the wedge is slightly larger than the other side, and the scion is cut for 1 -2 full buds, slowly insert the scion into the incision of the rootstock, align the cambium on the thicker side of the wedge with the cambium of the rootstock, wrap the wound area tightly with plastic strips, and seal the top of the scion with wax or plastic strips.
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